The word “sustainable” has almost become fashionable itself. Over the past few years the eagle eyed fashion followers amongst us will have noticed the use of the term everywhere.
From H&M’s advertisements promoting their sustainable materials and recyclable polyester, to Levi’s and their emphasis on recycled denim, and more recently even in A List celebrity collaborations such as Lewis Hamilton’s with Pangaia, and their promotion of the use of biodegradable organic cottons and environmentally friendly dyes.
But for those of us not in the know, it can be hard to ascertain exactly what “sustainable” means. This is complicated further by the darker side of sustainable fashion -- greenwashing. Greenwashing refers to brands who claim sustainability on their products, but in reality aren’t using environmentally friendly materials or dyes. They simply stick a sustainable tag on and hope to not get caught out, which is all too easy to do when it’s difficult for consumers to narrow down exactly what makes a product sustainable.
I’d go as far as to argue that a majority of shoppers purchase garments, see the sustainability tag, feel good about themselves and then fail to dig any further to find out what exactly is sustainable about their new t-shirt. That isn’t the fault of the consumer, but it does muddy the waters when it comes to separating the green-fingered genuine from those turning an important movement into a purchasing hook.
At James Hillman, we’ve created this brand friendly guide for new and existing brands to use in their attempts to make themselves and their products more sustainable. In this guide we’ll define what sustainability is, showcase why it’s important, and give brands some exclusive tips on how they can align their values to promote environmentally friendly ethics.
What is Sustainable Fashion?
Before we dive any deeper it’s best to start by defining what sustainability in fashion really means.
Sustainable fashion is at its heart, a movement that places great emphasis on using environmentally friendly materials and economically sustainable manufacturing techniques in the production of clothing products.
How does the environment concern the fashion industry?
The fashion industry is unfortunately one of the biggest contributors to global emissions. Alone, it accounts for around 10% of global carbon emissions and 20% of all wastewater. To give you some idea, to make a simple outfit such as one pair of jeans and a t-shirt uses around 20,000 litres of water. This is down to the process of planting the cotton, growing it, washing it and then dyeing it.
And then there’s the cotton itself. Depending on where it’s being picked from and grown, the fashion industry risks being a contributor to deforestation by clearing swathes of land to make room for cotton fields in order to feed demand. Deforestation doesn’t just rob wild animals of their homes and lead to extinction, it also robs us of our trees which are vital for the air we breathe and for protecting us against carbon dioxide - the leading cause of climate change.
So essentially, sustainable fashion recognises this problem, takes accountability for it and then presents a solution.
What does sustainable fashion propose?
Sustainable fashion’s solution is this: To remain environmentally conscious across all stages of the products life cycle, from its raw material production, to its manufacturing, transport and storage, to its marketing, and at the end of the products life cycle, in its reuse and recycling.
What does environmentally conscious mean in practice, you ask? It basically means to minimise negative environmental effects brought about because of the products life cycle.
Examples could include ensuring careful use of natural resources, such as the water usage, land usage, and ecosystems when choosing a material, to selecting renewable energy sources to produce the product, such as a factory run by solar energy, and finally maximising the recyclability of the product and its components by using biodegradable materials.
So to bring our cotton example back to the forefront, a fashion brand utilising sustainability would choose organic cotton to make its outfit. Organic cotton is an environmentally friendly choice because it is grown in healthy, non-engineered soil in conditions which naturally see increased rainfall. This then cuts down on water wastage because the soil soaks up the natural rainwater and uses it as a sponge, saving the need for additional water.
When did sustainable fashion start?
It may be easy to fall into the trap of thinking that sustainable fashion is a new movement, nurtured by an ever-increasing culture of awareness. But you’d be (partly) wrong!
The beginnings
Sustainable fashion actually dates back to the 70s and the hippie revolution. After the industrial boom of the 1950s, consumerist society began to rebel against the cloud of smog caused by mass manufacturing, consumption and production rates.
One of those rebellion movements was the Hippie revolution which promoted simpler living, embraced natural fabrics and set its own fashion style by going against mainstream fashion trends!
Fuelled by the effectiveness of the Hippie revolution, in the 1980s punk and goth styles started appearing, as did anti-fur movements and vintage, second-hand thrift store fashion.
The 90s x Fast Fashion
But the fashion industry was to pivot once more. The 1990s saw the birth of fast fashion - the enemy of sustainable fashion. Offshore manufacturing and global communication catalysed fashion into being cheaper and more accessible to produce than ever and consumption rates accelerated. Fast fashion was cheap, cheerful and completely non eco-friendly, which in the end would prove to be its downfall.
Fed up with the morals and ethics of fast fashion, “eco-fashion” movements began with brands such as Esprit launching their ‘Ecollection’. The groundbreaking Ecollection featured products made from, you guessed it - organic cotton.
An example of Esprit’s Ecollection jumpers. Source.
The Rana Plaza tragedy
Eco-fashion movements continued to gather momentum, until they themselves were catapulted to the mainstream in 2013. On the 24th of April 2013, an eight-story commercial building called Rana Plaza in Bangladesh collapsed, killing 1,134 people and injuring over 2,500 more.
The tragedy was a wakeup call for the fast fashion industry, and indeed for the overall fashion world. It was discovered that thousands of people were crammed into the textile factory, working unsafely, unsupervised and for under the country’s minimum wage.
It began serious conversations with fashion houses about ethics, including ensuring that factories were safe, that slave labour was not occurring and that workers were earning a fair wage. It shone light on “sweatshops” and manufacturing processes that left farmers and workers out of pocket. And most importantly, it began to drive a stake through fast fashion.
Changes began to occur from fashion houses who did not want their brands or products associated with unethical and unfair treatment. More and more movements began to spring to combat the fast fashion industry, with brands promoting equality for workers and safe working practices both for farmers, manufacturers and the environment.
How does Sustainable Fashion look today?
In 2021 these movements have only accelerated further due to our increased awareness of climate change. We are beginning to experience the effects of deforestation and carbon emissions, and brands are now actively working to ensure that their products do not face scrutiny for possessing a threat to the natural environment. Working in synchronicity, ethical and sustainable fashion have almost created a fashion trend that is positive, important and beneficial.
Ethical fashion ensures that farmers and workers are paid a fair wage and have suitable working and living conditions, whilst sustainable fashion has ensured that materials and manufacturing processes are as environmentally friendly and fair as possible.
Together they are driving change alongside climate change campaigns, and this is an important, and defining, era for the fashion industry.
Why is sustainable fashion important?
Really the question for this section should be phrased as: Why isn’t sustainable fashion important?
As we’ve seen, sustainable fashion is crucial for the protection of our planet and for safeguarding our environment. Sustainable fashion means that we don’t cause unnecessary damage to our natural world by tearing down rainforests and by polluting our skies with carbon emissions and greenhouse gases.
Sustainable fashion also means that farmers, workers, manufacturers, producers and all those involved in the life cycle of a product are fairly paid and work in safe environments.
By buying into sustainable fashion, we’re buying into the sustainability of our world and that should make any consumer feel good as well as look good!
We can see the message behind why sustainable fashion is so important in a recent collection curated by Tommy Hilfiger.
Tommy Hilfiger’s Luv The World collection is a bold range that stresses the emphasis of loving our planet. The collection uses recycled and sustainable materials with bold, bright messaging that reinstates the message at the heart of sustainable fashion: To love and care for our planet.
It’s bright, it’s bold, and it’s garish and for good reason; This bright colour scheme catches the attention of someone walking past and subliminally reiterates that all important message: Protect our planet.
Together its outward messaging works perfectly with its internal manufacturing, and its sales point. An affordable £40 is significant for a designer label like Tommy Hilfiger when considering its garments usually start at £60. A dropped price point acts as a symbol of encouragement to further persuade customers to make good choices regarding their fashion picks and purchase from the collection.
Collections like Tommy Hilfiger’s are almost as important as sustainable fashion itself. It’s all well and good shouting it from the rooftops, but if mainstream brands don’t adapt their materials and manufacturing processes, the message will remain confused and on the fringes of mainstream consumerist society.
What makes a fashion brand sustainable?
One of the biggest challenges when wanting to switch to sustainable fashion is identifying what makes a fashion brand sustainable.
Is it them plastering “sustainable” across their product range? (No) Or is it their transparency regarding their materials, manufacturing and processing processes? (Yes)
Sustainable fashion brands will have no qualms about being upfront and transparent about exactly what makes their garments sustainable.
Below we’ve listed some of the main things consumers should look out for:
Commitment and honesty about the sustainable materials used in their garments.
Good materials to look for include:
Organic materials like cotton, bamboo, hemp and linen
Recycled materials like cotton and polyester
Animal materials like sheep's wool, alpaca wool and down
Semi-synthetic fabrics like lyocell, modal and EcoVero
Transparency about the end of the products life-cycle
If you’re looking at a t-shirt that is made of recycled polyester and cotton, and its description also suggests that it will be either biodegradable or recyclable once it has come to the end of its life, that’s a good sign. Sustainable products are those which can either be repaired, recycled for reuse, or which will biodegrade into our soil providing vital nutrients for the next batch of organic cotton. And so the sustainable cycle restarts, with no additional harm to the environment!
Clear policies that state the brands commitment to fair trade and sustainability
Often these policies may be hidden in a deeper part of the website, but any genuine fashion house pursuing sustainable ethics will have them. Policies could include the brands stance on garment destruction, to their commitment to sourcing sustainable materials and paying fair wages, to even detailing their ecological footprint in all stages of the garments life cycle.
Availability for renting, upcycling and secondhand purchasing
Chrissy Tiegan made a stir not so long ago by revealing that she purchases and then sells all of her red carpet wear on luxury clothing renting and resale site, The Real Real. Fashion brands which embed the possibility of either renting or purchasing their garments second-hand, or actively encourage upcycling where possible are brands which are committed to sustainability. Renting, upcycling and thrifting are the antidote to fast fashion pieces which are purchased and worn for one-time only because they instead encourage multiple usage.
What brands are sustainable?
Unfortunately there’s currently no one size fits all list of sustainable brands. This is mostly due to the fact that many brands are promoting some aspect of sustainability, or are only just beginning to adopt practices and create ranges that are sustainable. There’s also the aforementioned greenwashing which can further muddy the waters of who is really sustainable and who is only claiming to be.
To make it easier to identify truly sustainable brands going forward we’ve listed some of our favourite brands who we know definitely are committed to sustainability, plus how we can tell, which should hopefully influence your purchasing decisions going forward with your favourite brands.
Patagonia
You can’t think about sustainable fashion without thinking of Patagonia. The brands commitment to sustainability is openly and transparently listed the moment you enter their website in a mission statement and brand story where they detail their journey toward reducing carbon emissions and producing zero waste. They even list their failures to prove just how little they have to hide in their commitment to be sustainable.
What makes Patagonia sustainable?
In their product life cycles Patagonia use recycled and sustainable materials, and eco-friendly methods of production and manufacturing. Patagonia’s mission, boldly displayed across their entire website, is to create products that don’t end up in landfill and this is reflected in all of the environmentally friendly work they do to manufacture their garments.
Examples of how Patagonia is sustainable
If consumers weren’t aware by the opening sentence on the homepage, they sure will be once they have noticed the Used Gear category proudly displayed ahead of all others on their product pages.
Used Gear refers to the upcycling and second-hand purchasing of Patagonia products, proving their resistance to fast fashion and encouragement to recycle.
Other giveaways are their facts regarding sustainability, found across their website in cards such as “Buying used extends a garment’s life by about two years, which cuts its combined carbon, waste and water footprint by 73%”, and their material lists which include materials such as lightweight 100% recycled nylon, DWR (durable water repellent) finish and Polyester.
BITE
BITE’s mission is actually proudly (and cleverly) displayed in their name. BITE stands for By Independent Thinkers for Environmental Progress, and this is the exact mission the brand is committed to fulfilling.
What makes BITE sustainable?
BITE prides itself on researching and utilising durable materials that are both environmentally friendly and made to stand the test of time. BITE uses high quality natural organic fibres and materials, promotes the use of recycled materials both through its collections and at the end of product life cycles and ensures each product it makes has a low-impact carbon footprint.
Examples of how BITE is sustainable
BITE actively promotes their use of sustainable materials in all of their product ranges. They attest to utilising organic cottons and silks across their product ranges, and they also emphasise how each garment is hand made and adheres to ethical practices.
Each product is also described as being made from “the finest organic, recycled and low impact materials” so consumers know and trust that the brand is only using materials which are environmentally friendly and sustainable.
CASASOLA
CASASOLA are a high-end luxury women’s wear brand with a difference: They’re committed to sustainability. CASASOLA emphasise that they want to replenish the wardrobe - not replace it, and so do this by using only the highest quality, durable materials possible in their mission to, as they put it, “quietly move fashion forward”.
What makes CASASOLA sustainable?
CASASOLA are a unique sustainable brand because they proudly display that all of the materials used in their products are sourced from the country in which they are made: Their home country of Italy. By using local materials CASASOLA leaves almost no carbon footprint. The brand also utilises recycled materials wherever possible, and even lists where they are sourced from.
Examples of how CASASOLA is sustainable
Whilst some brands may hide their sustainability policies, CASASOLA actively promote them. Their commitment to using materials which comply with Global Standard Regulation and Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals policies is plastered across their product descriptions, as is their commitment to a supply chain which treats everyone with “respect, dignity and fair wages”.
Plus for consumer ease, there’s an entire section of their website dedicated to their incredibly transparent sustainability practices.
By Malene Birger
Malene Birger are a brand who share mission similarities with both CASASOLA and Patagonia. Malene Birger also places an emphasis on durability, labelling their garments “long-lasting investment pieces with a conscious approach”. Alongside this, Malene Birger promotes a unique mission in their commitment to reducing waste whilst safeguarding both the environment and its animals at the same time.
What makes Malene Birger sustainable?
Malene Birger predominantly uses organic and recycled materials, and happily lists these for all to view on its site. As well as recycled cotton, Malene Birger also uses recycled wool and leather in its efforts to ensure animal products are used safely and sustainably.
Examples of how Malene Birger are sustainable
Malene Birger takes pride in ensuring that all of its garments meet regulatory standards. Denim collections meet Nordic Swan ecolabel certification - Denmark’s most rigorous environmentally friendly standard - whilst Malene Birger ensures that it meets UN Global Environmental Principles. In addition Malene Birger stresses the importance that no animals were harmed in the manufacture of any of its products, proving its commitment to environmentally friendly practices throughout the product life cycle.
Nanushka
Nanushka regard sustainability as a pillar of their brand, and allude to values of experimentation, craftsmanship and progressivism in their mission to deliver versatile wardrobes that are considerate of people and the planet.
What makes Nanushka sustainable
Nanushka’s sustainability is based around choosing sustainable materials, using manufacturing processes that are low-impact to the environment, and using local manufacturing where possible to lessen carbon footprints.
Examples of how Nanushka are sustainable
Nanushka chooses to use materials which are in some cases, vegan - meaning the material is free of animal products or derivatives, which are locally made, being manufactured only 300km from Nanushka’s HQ to lessen C02 emissions, and that are also forestry friendly. The cellulose-based fibers within its products are sourced from sustainably managed forests and balance the needs of the environment, wildlife and forestry communities. What’s more all of this information is clearly displayed on their product pages under a designated section entitled Sustainability.
Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney herself has long been an advocate for positive environmental change. Not only does she have a successful vegan food range, she also has a collection of vegan perfumes. Of course then it’s no surprise that this consciousness regarding sustainability and environmentally friendly practice is embedded throughout her fashion garments.
What makes Stella McCartney sustainable
Stella McCartney has always placed emphasis on what she coins “nature-based solutions”. Garments produced under the Stella McCartney fashion label regularly attest to being forest or animal friendly and promote positive “eco values”.
Examples of how Stella McCartney is sustainable
All Stella McCartney products list their materials, and all of them are sustainably sourced. From reengineered cashmere, to faux fur, to recycled materials such as nylon, cotton and polyester, right down to vegetarian leather and wool taken from high quality animal welfare farms, all of the materials produce as little negative impact as possible onto the environment.
Currently Stella McCartney are even working on a way to reduce the carbon footprint of the metals used in their accessories. Detail and design are everything here, and Stella McCartney always manages the perfect mix of looking good, and feeling good.
How can brands become more sustainable?
Now we’ve seen some examples of brands getting it right, how can brands who are perhaps not upholding a commitment to sustainability improve their practices?
Here are some James Hillman exclusive tidbits that can help brands to refocus their vision and better work toward producing sustainable fashion garments.
Understand consumer expectation
This may sound like a broad heading, but it’s actually quite simple. In today’s age, consumers are growing increasingly conscious of their own ecological footprint and are actively taking measures to reduce it. That means that when it comes to fashion, a large majority are unlikely to buy cheap fast fashion pieces because they are aware of where the piece may have originated from, and will likely not trust the ethical or environmental practice surrounding its production.
Let’s face it, nobody wants to show up to a group gathering in a shirt that is going to be ridiculed for being in poor environmental, ethical or societal taste.
This means that the consumer expectation around fashion nowadays is that the garment is produced ethically - so the farmers, field workers and those involved in the manufacturing are paid fairly and live well - and that the garment is made via sustainable practices. Whether it’s the material sourced for the product, or whether it's the carbon footprint attached to the production, consumers want to know that they’re not buying a piece of clothing that is going to clog landfill and damage the environment.
The more that brands can ensure that they are producing garments that meet and exceed these expectations, the more they can start carving out a competitive edge ahead of competitors who are perhaps slow off the mark to pivot to sustainability practices.
2. Make sustainability a long term project
The path to sustainability is not easy. Just look at our above brand examples: Patagonia and Nanushka both openly admit that the journeys have not been smooth and that they have made mistakes and hit stumbling blocks.
That’s fine! That’s normal! A brand will not transform itself to the very height of sustainability overnight, even with all its might. There are a multitude of things to consider, from choosing materials to ethical production processes to low carbon emission logistics.
But by being transparent in its efforts, just as Patagonia and Nanushka have done, brands can win over consumers even as they’re in the process of transforming to sustainable practices because it shows one thing: That they’re committed to at least trying.
3. Be transparent about all aspects of the business
When it comes to sustainability, transparency is in. Malene Birger for example are completely transparent about where their materials are sourced from and are transparent in their efforts to protect animals by meeting strict regulatory standards.
It’s all very easy to claim that your brand is doing the most to become sustainable, when really you may have just sourced a few kilos of what you’re hoping is organic cotton.
Peeling back the curtain to let consumers know exactly what you’re sourcing, where from and why helps them to build trust in the brand's efforts to become more sustainable. It also engages them: The topic of sustainability is fascinating and the more people know, the more aware they can be. It’s a win win for everyone involved and can promote your brand to being a voice of authority.
4. Don’t greenwash
We’re just going to reiterate this once more: Don’t greenwash. Sustainability is a serious movement and it can be incredibly easy for consumers to see through a brand using sustainability as nothing more than a marketing promotion.
Greenwashing is not only harmful for a brands reputation, it also discredits the work that other brands are desperately trying to undertake in order to truly become sustainable. It makes a mockery of the movement, and it puts the fashion industry in a horrendously negative light.
5. Reduce waste and encourage upcycling
For a long time there has been a stigma about thrift shopping and buying second-hand. Thankfully the tide seems to be turning on that - helped of course by Patagonia and then mainstream radio hits like Macklemore’s Thrift Shop.
Buying used and upcycling are important factors in a brand’s bid to be sustainable because they encourage multiwear and actually take a product throughout its entire life cycle.
Encouraging consumers to upcycle where possible prevents good quality products which could be reused, reworn or repaired from ending up in landfill - a factor which makes all the difference when it comes to being environmentally aware and sustainable.
Summary/Final Thoughts:
Sustainability may not be easy, but it is important. As more and more emphasis is placed on protecting the environment to reverse negative impacts made by carbon emissions and greenhouse gases, the fashion industry can play a huge role in helping to turn things around.
Whilst the industry may have been one of the worst offenders, it no longer has to be and there are things that every brand can do. Whether it’s looking to increase the use of organic or recycled materials, whether it’s reducing the carbon footprint of a product or whether it’s sourcing local materials and manufacturing methods, each brand can play a part in moving away from detrimental fast fashion practices and instead promote longer term investment into durable, recyclable and sustainable clothing.
If brands work together to get sustainability right, we may eventually come to view sustainable fashion as less of a luxury surprise and more of an absolute must.
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At James Hillman we are proud to have been approached by brands who wanted to produce something fashionable, but sustainable. We’re able to advise you on materials, manufacturing and production, and we can provide expert consultation through every step of the process. If you’re a brand looking to transform to a more environmentally friendly way of working, or if you’ve got an idea that you’d love to make reality, get in touch with us today.
